The Skinny Critic

A night to remeber: Mark Hix cooks at Stephen Webster

Mark Hix was flown in from London to prepare a very special dinner for a small group at the new Stephen Webster boutique in Beverly Hills. The dinner was held in the "No Regrets Lounge," upstairs in the boutique off Rodeo Dr. The lounge, which hosts rotating exhibits, currently features "Swinging Sixties" by photographer Duffy. The host's were non other than Stephen Webster, Mark Hix, and Duffy's son.

I didn't really know what to expect going into this event, but it was one of the most incredible evenings I've had in a long time.  It was my first time in the boutique, which used to house Garrard.  It's was hard to make it upstairs as I was taken aback by the exquisite colors of the stones in the cases.

The stones literally looked as though they were glowing!! I have to have one of these! His jewelry is truly unique and striking, and I've never seen anything quite like it. 

We made our way up the staircase to the No Regrets Lounge and were given a Hix Fix. One of Chef Hix's signature cocktails from London, champagne with brandy and cherries.  It was a great beginning to the night. We were in a room surrounded by incredible art - all the work of Duffy.  It was his series on Bowie - one of Stephen's musical heroes and someone who has influenced Stephen's work. Many of the originals on show are unseen pictures - the show will run for six weeks.

After admiring the art and sipping on cocktails we were seated and briefed on the evening.  Stephen introduced Chris Duffy and the Mark Hix who talked about his inspiration for the meal.

Chef Mark went to the local farmer's markets and got an excellent array of vegetables and meats. The meal was all share plates in the center of the table, which encouraged getting to know your fellow diners. Appetizers consisted of asparagus, fava bean hummus, and an assortment of flat breads. The asparagus was my favorite. They were perfectly tender, so flavorful and came with a great dipping sauce.

Entrees were roasted potatoes and an incredible assortment of meats, all of which were perfectly prepared.  There was veal loin, rack of lamb, beef and pork ribs.

The food was all so wonderful. Fresh mustard's were served as an accompaniment to the meats.  We finished off round one, and out came more platters of meat! The most amazing part about this meal - there is no kitchen in Stephen Webster.  All the prep work had to be done ahead of time and they did what they could with the space they had. 

Dessert was a lemon cheesecake with a blueberry sauce and fresh blueberries. A great ending to a wonderful meal! And Stephen was obviously quite pleased with Chef Mark!

We were pleased as well!

Stephen Webster 2 Rodeo Dr. (310) 246-9500

Greenleaf, my new go-to lunch spot!

Although Greenleaf has been around for a couple years, I haven't been in lately.  I think I forgot it was there. But I am so glad I tried it again as it is the perfect spot for an easy lunch in Beverly Hills (or Century City at their newer location).  Greenleaf reminds me why I love living in LA. We are so lucky to have companies that are producing great, healthy, organic foods that are low in fats, sugars and cost but still taste flavorful!

Another thing I love about Greenleaf is that it changes with the seasons. You are getting the best of local ingredients at their peak.  Produce was often picked the day before it ends up on your plate, just 40 miles away.  How many restaurants can you say that about, especially without paying $40 per plate.

In season right now? Mushroom soup with truffle oil - no dairy at all. This soup was delicious and I would be more than thrilled having a large bowl for lunch. The richness of the mushrooms are surprisingly filling.

The "highlights" of the restaurant are signature salads made to order like the antioxidant orchard salad with fresh strawberries, blueberries, dried cranberries, agave roasted walnuts, blue cheese, red onion, cucumbers, grapes, apples and a whole grain vinaigrette. The lemongrass chicken salad sounds like it would be higher in calories, but is one of the lighter salads on the menu. Scarborough farms mixed greens are topped with mango, grilled pineapple, jicama, agave roasted cashews, toasted coconut and a thai chili and thai basil with a lemon grass lychee vinaigrette.

For the hungry men in our lives, there are options that will satisfy them too. The steak "sandwich" salad is iceberg lettuce and arugula topped with pickled red onions, grilled corn, tomatoes, jalapeno jack cheese, basil, pieces of grilled jalapeno cornbread and flatiron steak.

For the non-salad eaters, there are plenty of other choices, like sandwiches, entrees or "pizzas".  I tried the wild mushroom and truffle pizza, which comes on a whole-wheat tortilla that is made just for Greenleaf. The crust is thin and crisp and the mushrooms, arugula and parmesan are the perfect combination. The whole thing has only around 400 calories but still makes you feel indulgent!

Don't miss the sides at Greenleaf. Frankly the sides would make a great entree if you want to add a protein (which are all natural and hormone free) or just order a couple.  I LOVED the warm lentils, and I don't usually care for lentils.  These were incredible, with a bit of balsamic, they were surprisingly light and really full of flavor. Another great side is the beets with roasted yams, walnuts, goat cheese and cucumbers. The yams and beets are tender and the walnuts and cucumber give a great crunch.

Tuscan kale salad is another fresh and healthy side. The kale is topped with pecorino, parmesan, lemon juice, and a bit of olive oil and is really refreshing and crisp.

If none of the above is calling your name you can always design your own salad, but I wouldn't bother as the ones they've designed are so great. 

I thought desserts must be lacking.  How could anything sweet and decadent come from a place so health conscious? But I'm pleased to say I was wrong.  Little mini chocolate chip cookies comes in bags of 3 and are the perfect treat to satisfy your sweet tooth after a healthy lunch. Carrot cake is seriously good with a super moist cake and very creamy, smooth frosting.

The best part about a lunch at Greenleaf? You go away feeling good about yourself. You put great ingredients into your body that are local and seasonal. Want to know where the ingredients are coming from? Ask Jonathon Rollo, the owner -formerly of Patina, who is almost always behind the counter making sure his products are being put out just as he likes them. It's also interesting to see the people that are eating at Greenleaf. For the most part they are thin, active looking people.  When you make a place a part of your weekly lunch routine, I would hope you are getting healthy, fresh food.  Customers are coming into Greenleaf a lot more than once a week - they are coming in as often as 4 times a week, so they must be satisfied.

Greenleaf delivers for free, plus you receive 10% off until April 23rd if you place your order on-line. Look for prepared Greenleaf items in Equinox and Barry's Bootcamp.

Greenleaf Gourmet Chopshop 9671 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 246-0756

 

Brunch at Bouchon Beverly Hills

Brunch in LA is a funny thing. People don't really do brunch here, at least not like they do in NYC. In NYC people spend hours at brunch on the weekends. They wait for 45 minutes for a table and then sit for 3 hours, sipping on mimosas, eating bread baskets and egg dishes. When ever I have friends visit from NYC they are always surprised that brunch isn't on the weekend agenda...at least not until now.

Brunch is now officially being served at Bouchon, Beverly Hills.  I have always been a fan of brunch at Bouchon in Vegas and now I can have the famed chicken and waffles right here in Beverly Hills.

When going in for brunch I recommend starting out with the assortment of pastries. A few of the things that may come out include a croissant with a crunchy fruit like topping, a hazelnut chocolate croissant, a brioche bread topped with almonds and a raisin danish.

Enjoy a cocktail and glance over the menu. If you are doing a full brunch, and you might as well since you are at one of the few places in LA that offers such a thing, order a few things to start. Asparagus with a poached egg is great in the center of the table, as is the potato latka with smoked fish.

Choices range from eggs to fish to chicken to sweets.  I think the egg dishes at Bouchon are stellar. A crocque madame is the perfect thing for the person who likes salty things in the morning. A perfectly grilled ham and cheese sandwich with a fried egg and mornay sauce isn't necessarily the lightest way to start your day, but it's sure a tasty way to do so.

For the sweet tooth, the brioche french toast with fiji apple compote and cream chantilly will keep you satisfied.  And for the person who like both, there is chicken and waffles.  Roasted chicken is served next to waffles filled with bacon and chives. Tahitian vanilla bean butter comes on the side, as does a gravy like sauce chasseur and maple syrup.

Another favorite of mine is the "Ouef and boudin blanc." Beautifully scrambled eggs come with a large chicken and pork sausage, croissant and beurre noisette (browned butter). If I want to make this a skinner dish, I'll get egg whites scrambled.

And dessert must not be missed. The Pot de creme changes often and last I was in was a soothing mint. Their meringues are always perfect, crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside. The dark chocolate mousse, called the Marquise au chocolat, is rich and satisfying with a burnt orange cream.

Bouchon 235 N Canon Dr. (310) 271-9910

Spago - a Beverly Hills classic...

Spago Beverly Hills is a classic.   A restaurant that has been consistently booked for the past 3 decades. Spago originally opened in 1982. Since then, the restaurant has seen many Chefs, a few locations and thousands of waiters.  However the quality remains. California's ingredients shine at their prime while the "fusion" still appears in dishes like the Hong Kong style lup de mer or the cantonese style roasted shartsleville duck. 

The patio at Spago is the place to be on a warm evening in Los Angeles. Trees covered in lights and a soft waterfall trickling in the background make for the perfect, romantic setting. The inside is much more corporate feeling, unfortunately. Tables are spaced almost too far apart.  The room is huge and feels impersonal.  The place feels as though it hasn't been redesigned in over a decade - because it hasn't. Service can be hit or miss. While some servers are well versed in the wine list and menu, others are impersonal and undereducated about everything - the food, the wine, you name it.  

But the kitchen continues to shine.  Every dish that comes out seems to wow the guests.  Recently I started with the roasted Italian chestnut agnolotti.  Puck's agnolotti is always hand made and superb. This dish is particularly fall, which I love.  It's finished with mascarpone, parmesan and warm butter that gently coats the delicate, sweet pastas.

The marinated Japanese hamachi and tuna sashimi were wonderfully fresh and light, topped with soy yuzu sauce and pumpkin seed oil.  

A couple entrees never change: the spicy beef goulash with sauteed spaetzle, parsley, majoram and paprika is incredibly rich and satisfying. It's a hail to Puck's native Austria and is a perfect dish on a cold evening. 

Roasted squab was served on a bed of radichio with a chestnut stuffing.  Pan seared Maine diver scallops were perfectly caramelized and the presentation was beautiful with roasted fall root vegetables, parsnip puree, and a lovely sauce of red wine shellfish reduction and a mushroom emulsion. 

 While some of Sherry Yard's desserts are incredible such as the raspberry souffle, others are mediocre, like the apple in pastry.  The souffle is topped with a rich chocolate sauce and is the ideal combination of sweet and sour.  The apple dessert was too plain for my tastes. 

A chocolate cake was rich and but also not my favorite.

Spago will be closing in a few months for a needed face lift. After that it will reopen and hopefully be around for decades to come. The food is still some of the best in the city.

Spago 176 North Canon Dr. Beverly Hills (310) 385-0880

Culina - wonderful Italian at the Four Seasons in Beverly Hills

A breath of fresh air has rolled into the Four Seasons in Beverly Hills: Culina. Culina is modern Italian cuisine at it's best. Chef Victor Casanova serves classics like lasagna della nonna with sausage ragu and mozzarella but also has modern California twists such as a lobster pizza with burrata and basil seeds.

Dinner in the restaurant is low-key, relaxed yet elegant. Waiters bring over rosemary foccacia and olive oil and menu's are presented. Waiters tend to push the crudo - a selection of raw fish. I tried a sampler that included the ahi tuna with ginger oil, coriander seed and lemoned salt, the yellowtail and the salmon with caper salt and blood orange.  While fresh and light, I save raw fish for sushi restaurants since we are in LA.

Other appetizers are delightfully seasonal with an Italian twist. California figs come with the creamiest ricotta I've ever tasted, aged balsamic and rucola.

Pizzas are excellent. Crusts are super thin and they come out pipping hot from the wood burning oven on white or wheat crust. The lobster pizza is incredibly unique, served with chucks of claw and body meat, burrata and basil seeds, it has a slight spiciness. But the margherita with buffalo mozzarella, basil and tomato sauce is still my favorite. 

Pastas are also wonderful - particularly the papperadelle with lamb ragu, pecorino and mint. All are made in house (except for the bucatini).

Entrees are the only thing that have fallen short.  Branzino with lemon, capers and tomatoes fell a little flat. Cod with pancetta and Brussels sprouts came with a crispy skin and was very rich.

Chicken was better- it came with braised kale and butternut squash. Spiny lobster came with king trumpet mushrooms and was my favorite of the entrees. The veal chop with the ciabatta crust was perfectly tender with a wonderfully crispy crust and a nice salad of arugula, parmesan and tomatoes.

 Desserts haven't sparked my interest enough to order, however you are given lovely biscotti's on your way out that are excellent dipped in tea.

 

Culina 300 South Doheny Dr. Beverly Hills (310) 860-4000

Momed Beverly Hills...almost there

I actually heard about the opening of Momed, Beverly Hill's latest Mediterranean outpost, from one of the best pastry chef's at my school. Apparently she had been asked to do some consulting for their pitas and other baked goods. Early press described the place as a market-so I was anticipating a great new lunch spot-Urth Cafe cum Greece sort of place.

My first visit was for dinner last week.  The place was relatively busy for a market-cafe on a Friday night at 6:30.  They've taken on the "order at the counter" approach that seems ever popular in this city and choices range from the salads behind deli case to grilled lamb, shrimp or chicken entrees.  They also have rotating daily specials. 

We tried the grilled shrimp with pita and got sides of the avocado hummus and baba ganoush. The shrimp were incredible. They were big, flavorful, juicy and done with lemon, herbs and Corsican sea salt.  The pita was wonderful and the avocado hummus was so creamy.  Almost too creamy as a little went a lonngggg way.  My only complaint are that the sides of hummus and baba ganoush were far too large. I would have rather split the portion sizes and tried a few of their other salad options.

We also tried the pizza like bread called "Pide" cooked in the wood oven. We choose the Peynirli with tomato sauce, halloumi cheese, and oven-roasted tomatoes. It ate almost like a deep dish pizza and was very good.

My second visit was for lunch and they are obviously still working out the kinks in their production as at 12:30 on a Sunday there was no hummus to be had. How can you call yourself a Meditteranean restaurant and not have hummus? Apparently it was being made but wasn't ready yet...Let's get it together!  I opted again for the Jumbo Shrimp skewer-even though its not on a skewer at all. For sides I choose the Muhammara (which is roasted red pepper, walnut and pomegranate dip) and again the baba ganoush since they had no hummus.  I also had a side of the house made dolmas (grape leaves), which came with a small side of tzatziki and I tried the traditional Lebanese morning flatbread known as Mannaeesh with za'atar with akawi cheese, cucumber, Persian mint and house marinated olives. This was the first time I'd ever had Mannaeesh and I liked it-think of it as a large pita rolled with filling in the middle. 

The food at Momed is definitely authentic-so authentic that many of the things on the menu are foregin and unrecognizable.  But it's a bit of a culinary adventure and so far the results have been more than good.  The little touches make the place fun...like the numbers with a "1" in English on one side and the number 1 in Arabic.

 

They also offer Ayran yogurt drink, and many authentic pastries. Once they get sorted I think this place will do quite well.   I wish there were more places like this in LA-using fresh local, sustainable ingredients to showcase food of a different culture...right here in our own backyard.

Momed 233 South Beverly Drive (310) 270-4288
233

Bouchon

I awaited the Bouchon opening for months.  I was practically beside myself at the thought of having a Thomas Keller restaurant right here in Los Angeles.  Would they have the wonderful chicken and waffles dish from Bouchon in Vegas?  Would they serve the sweet confections offered at Bouchon in New York?  Would it be impossible to get into, like Per Se and the French Laundry? All questions that would be answered in due time...

I followed the press on EaterLA and other sites and I must say I was in awe of how much coverage the opening was receiving.  You would have thought it was the first restaurant to open in Los Angeles, EVER! There was a red carpet party that was chucked full of celebs and paparazzi.  There were cooking demonstrations on morning news shows with Keller.  There were interviews with everyone from the sommelier to Keller himself. 

I somehow managed to secure a 7:45 reservation on opening night for two on my first attempt. Even more amazing is that now reservations at a normal hour are impossible to come by, so that answers one of the questions: it IS as difficult to reserve as Per Se and The French Laundry...unless of course you want to eat at 5 or 9:30 and I don't. 

The restaurant was bustling on opening night.  We were seated at a table right behind Gail Simmons and a group of what looked like a bunch of important 'food people'. The restaurant was big a beautiful.  Tiled floors showed attention to detail and the second story location provides a nice view of the courtyard of the Montage Hotel.  

We decided to start with champagne, because we were celebrating: celebrating the addition of a wonderful new restaurant to our city.  From there we visited the very impressive cocktail list.  So impressive in fact that the bar would be worth visiting for a good drink even if you couldn't get a dinner reservation.  We ordered a pisco sour that was perfectly authentic with the frothy egg whites and a champagne cocktail with orange and St. Germain.  Both were fantastic. 

The menus are presented as little folded pieces of thin brown paper, something that I have never seen at another Bouchon.  Daily specials are written on chalkboards around the room and also presented in more detail by the server. The specials on opening night all sounded incredible and we actually ended up ordering three of the five that were offered. We started with two soups, the special, which was a butternut squash with nutmeg, cloves and creme fraiche and the French onion soup from the menu.  Both were wonderful.  The butternut squash was warmed me immediately and had the perfect flavors of fall.  It was made with a vegetable broth so it wasn't too heavy.  The onion soup was beautifully done with just the right amount of cheese.  

 

Entrees were hard to choose, but knowing that we would be back we choose the halibut as it was a special and specials will change daily.  It was prepared with sunchokes, grapefruit and fennel. This dish was the best of the evening. The fish was so delicate, fresh and perfectly prepared.  The accompaniments were perfect and added just the right amount of sweet and saltiness to the dish.

 We also ordered the chicken with fingerling potatoes, button mushrooms, lardons and pearl onions all in a winter savory jus. The chicken too was great and had a nice crispy skin.  

We ordered a side of the mac and cheese and I would say that was my least favorite dish of the night.  It just doesn't compare to the mac and cheese at Cut. 

Desserts are ohh so French with a little twist. Profiteroles come with ice cream centers and topped with chocolate sauce. The dessert special was chocolate bouchon's with vanilla ice cream.  Both were decent, but next time I'd like to try the Ile Flottante - meringue with creme anglaise, almond and caramel. 

 

We had a fabulous evening and service definitely showed the finesse that Keller strives for.  I am so excited to have this wonderful restaurant in Los Angeles and cannot wait to go try more of the dishes (and cocktails!)

Bouchon 235 N. Canon Dr.  (310) 271-9910

Famous Cupcakes opens in Beverly Hills

On my lunch walk today I walked right into the grand opening of the 2nd location of Famous Cupcakes-the sweet spot is known for being a favorite to none other than the Kardashian sisters.  And it does look like they eat a fair amount of cupcakes.   

The cute blue and brown store front had rather scary looking women like clowns in silts attempting to welcome people without falling over-as you can see the girl walking by doesn't seem the least bit interested.   

 Free mini-cupcakes were being handed out that were actually quite delicious and there were a plethora of other flavors available for purchase.   Is this place good enough to top the ever popular Sprinkles just blocks away?  I'd say it isn't looking good as there isn't even a line when they are giving away the cupcakes for free.  But maybe the hype will build...time will tell! 

Famous Cupcakes 168 S. Beverly Dr. Beverly Hills

Matsuhisa

*Skinny Seal*

Chef Nobu Matsuhisa has created a global empire around his Japanese fusion recipes that can now be found in cities all over the world.  Whether dining in Mexico City, Melbourne or Mykonos, you are sure to see sashimi with jalapeno, rock shrimp tempura and black cod with miso on the menu. 

 Having grown up in Malibu, I was lucky enough to feast on these famous dishes and many more since 1999, when Nobu Malibu opened its doors.  Traveling elsewhere has shown that each Nobu has a touch of personality and a lot of the classic Nobu Matsuhisa style. 

Now living in LA, I was drawn to Nobu Matsuhisa’s claim to fame, Matsuhisa Restaurant on La Cienega.  The simple exterior is leads you to believe nothing that creative could be happening inside, but as soon as it opened, the restaurant was an instant success.  Dishes are copied on Asian fusion menus all over the country from Tao in New York to Sushi Roku here in LA.  They all have rock shrimp tempura and black cod with miso.  But none have managed to create the name and brand that Chef Nobu has. 

I still feel the food is strongest at the original outpost.  No longer hard to get into as the initial buzz wore off about a decade ago, the dishes put out at Matsushisa are consistent, creative and delicious.  

A few recent trips reminded me just how special some of these dishes are.  A lobster salad comes out huge, with large, tender chunks of lobster, fried garlic pieces, sesame seeds and mushrooms. 

Still the best lobster salad I’ve ever had.  Spicy sour shrimp are beautifully butterflied in shell and topped with a red sauce, spicy enough to keep you coming back for more.

 Miso eggplant is rich and heavy drenched in the sweet miso dressing.  

A special of scallop sashimi was on top a slice of kiwi and topped with black garlic.  

King crab tempura with jalapeno and yuzu has the perfect acidity and is still one of my favorites. Kanpachi with chili paste is delicate and flavorful. 

 

The simplicity of Matsuhisa keeps locals coming back regularly and tourists away, which is great for me so I don’t need a reservation to plan ahead.  The allure of Nobu may be gone for some, but its still quite alive for me, especially when Nobu Matsuhisa himself was seated just a few tables over. 

Matsuhisa 129 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310) 659-9639

Cut

*Skinny Seal*

There is steak, and there is american wagyu filet mignon at Cut.  It is without a doubt the single most flavorful and tender piece of meat I have ever put in my mouth.  Although I was a bit under impressed when I first walked into the restaurant - it is white, contemporary and rather cold, the dinning experience is nothing short of extraordinary. Located in the heart of the Regent Beverly Wilshire Hotel, Wolfgang Pucks latest venture in LA does not disappoint.  Great wines, great cocktails, great bread ( I love the pretzel and the focaccia, along with the little gruyere puffs that come out when you are seated), and all around great food.  I have eaten here many times and am always pleasantly surprised with the way chef Lee Hefter makes use of seasonal ingredients. Most recently the standout appetizers have been the sweet corn salad with taziki, caramelized cippolini onions and farmer's market tomatoes.  

Also as the cantaloupe with buffala mozzarella aged balsamic and prosciutto de parma.  One of their classic appetizers is the asparagus with the poached egg and warm bacon vinaigrette. Simply put, this dish is superb. Another dish that you cannot miss are the mini sliders-I don't know what they do to these little burgers but they are amazing.  Their pork belly is also incredible and highly recommended.  

If you think you can only get steak at Cut, you are seriously mistaken. They easily have some of the best seafood dishes in town.  The Dover Sole is perfectly cooked and prepared table side. It comes with a preserved lemon and parsley sauce. 

 Fresh spot prawns are delicious and come with a unique wasabi butter. The 2lb lobster is my favorite lobster in the city and comes with a truffle sabayon for dipping.  Follow with the american wagyu filet or the double R if they have it. The best way to order is to share a steak and a seafood item.

 Ask for the bordelaise sauce and steak sauce and try a bit of the violet mustard.  Sides change seasonally but can include parsnip puree, mushrooms or creamed spinach.  The mac and cheese is the best.  Dessert is good if you can handle it- I would recommend the baked alaska, but by that point I'm usually quite full!  Nonetheless, they bring you petit fours! My kind of place!

Cut 9500 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 276-8500